STARCHITECT JEWELRY | »Oscar’s curves, Oscar’s jewels« :: The H. Stern Collection by Oscar Niemeyer

Campaign: H. Stern (Niemeyer Collection)
Photographer: Jacques Dequeker
Model: Carol Trentini
Styling: Daniel Ueda
Art Diretion: Renata Corrêa e Marcia  Cabral
Fashion Production: Fernanda Ary e Rita Lazzarotti

Okay. Let’s get one thing straight first. The collection should really be called “The Oscar Niemeyer Collection by H. Stern.” For this is a collection initiated by H. Stern’s Roberto Stern and executed by the creative minds at his Ipanema-based flagship.

Oscar Niemeyer with Roberto Stern, President and Creative Director, H. Stern, who has previously worked with Diane von Furstenberg:

If you’re looking for a “real” Oscar, you have one choice: the stunning necklace, below:

It’s based on a print Niemeyer did in the ’80s:

Having said that, this is a superb collection, way better than Tiffany’s collaborations with their starchitect, Frank Gehry:

Elsa Peretti remans the queen of designer jewelry, but the Oscar collection is superb and something to get excited about. Well done!

JEWEL – Who says jewelry has never been part of Oscar Niemeyer’s imagination? Just search in your work to find a silkscreen, 1987, in which the muse of time wears a sumptuous piece of jewelry: a necklace full of turns, as it should be! The jewel in this case arises from a continuous line that makes turns sequentially drop-shaped along the female cervix. For H. Stern, these traits gave birth to a charming necklace and earring in which a wire yellow gold reproduces a stylized ring-shaped — curves of the infinite unique jewelry — jewelry designed by Niemeyer!

FAVORITE WOMEN – What is life for Niemeyer? ‘Woman on the side and be what God wants.’ Women, who Niemeyer immortalized in drawings as Two Women on the Beach, Women with Flowers and Two Women Seated were always an inspiration to him. The sensuous curves of women enchanted the tireless artist and you can see references to them throughout his work. Oh, how magical it is to see emerge in the white sheet of paper … a beautiful figure of a woman, how and the desire to draw like them! How I feel in the corners of my architecture!’ In this collection, feminine curves arise in long earrings of yellow gold and white gold.

PAMPULHA – The inspiration for this line comes from the twisting design of the roof of Saint Francis of Assisi in Pampulha, Belo Horizonte. The project was created by Niemeyer in the 40s at the request of Juscelino Kubitschek, then mayor of the city, and generated controversy for its bold forms. On its construction, Niemeyer said: ‘I covered her curves, the curves varied with the intention of challenging the rectilinear architecture which then prevailed.’ H. Stern has reproduced the wavy design of this emblematic work in rings, earrings and a bracelet of white gold and diamonds.

Foto > Marcel Gautherot/IMS

Photo > Brasília Cathedral by Nicholas DeVore III

BRASILIA – The concave and convex domes that make up the National Congress Building, Brasilia, form two bracelets, yellow gold or white gold with diamonds, in which solid lines and hollow embrace the feminine wrist lightly and sensually. The jewelry reconstructs Niemeyer’s proposed design from 1958 that would become one of the postcards of the federal capital. ‘At the Plaza of the Three Powers I wanted to make an architecture lighter, to make the buildings seem as they only touched the ground, he explains. Besides the bracelet, there are also earrings whose curves are joined by opposing ends, with natural lightness.

COPAN – One of the icons of the concrete poetry of the state capital — sung about by Caetano Veloso in Sampa — the Copan Building has hovered like a wave on the horizon of the metropolis since the 50s, in contrast to the prevailing right angles of the local architecture. It was a wavy and striking design that gave rise to Copan jewelry, with rings in the form of waves and a yellow gold bracelet with its volume impact. There are also rings in versions with two or four waves.

HOOK – Amid the iconic projects of Pampulha and the National Congress in Brasilia, Niemeyer’s office wall displays intriguing graphics. Two curved lines appear to be perpendicular to the sketch of the always-bold columns of its buildings. Who knows the arched columns of the Cathedral of Brasília or the Presidential Palace? Or maybe the profile of the curved domes that he transforms into incredibly functional buildings? It may be also an unpretentious sketch that has not been transformed into works of concrete. The fact is that extreme simplicity of this sketch has been interpreted in two by H. Stern earrings — white gold or yellow gold — in the line of metal bend between the front and behind the earlobe. A toast to beauty essential!

CURVES – If the line is the shortest path between two points, the curve is what makes the actual search for the infinite,’ said Niemeyer, explaining his preference for fluid lines and sinuous curves. These curves baptize this line of jewelry, rings, earrings and a bracelet. In the earrings and bracelet, the turns form corrugated layers, one atop the other. The design explores one of the key elements of architecture: perspective. The visual impression caused differs according to the angle through which one sees the jewels.

FLOWER – Niemeyer’s work also includes sketches of simple beauty, such as one in which an anonymous hand holds a flower of four leaves. A single line forms the image which refers to children’s drawings such is its simplicity. This design was the origin for pendants and a yellow gold bracelet representing the flower according to the spontaneous vision of the architect and designer clothes to perfection. The flowers of gold are cast in reference to the appreciation of Niemeyer’s unfilled areas. ‘Architecture is to win space … I do not understand who is afraid of spans. Space is part of architecture.’ It is also part of the jewelry!

– | Niemeyer assina jóias da H. Stern

Maquettes by Gil Antune

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